From the “Fisherman’s Own Book”
…”In 1606, we have seen, our harbor was named Le Beau Port, and sincerely. Harbors differ as men do. Harbors are human and something like women ; they have their own times for dainty and delicate attire. To know them, you must study them, under daylight, under twilight ; at sunrise and sunset ; under the full harvest moon ; at low tide and high tide ; in a storm
and after it is over ; then will you find some mood to admire, new beauty come to sight. Our harbor, like every other, sulks sometimes, one must allow. A dog-day’s fog has hung over it, or wrung itself dry into it, to-day.” (15)
Samuel de Champlain on his
Second Voyage 1605 p.9
“……On the July 15th they passed Little Boar’s Head and the Isles of Shoals, named by them “Isles Jettees”, and then Portsmouth Harbour, which was unnoticed by them, spending the night near the eastern end of cape Ann, named by Champlain “Cap aux Isles”.
After the Indians had performed their customary dance on the beach, Champlain went ashore and presented to each a knife and some biscuit, which, as the journal says,
“caused them to dance better than ever… I made them understand, as well as I could, that I desired them to show me the course of the shore. After I had drawn with crayon the bay, and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same crayon they drew the outline of another bay, which they represented as very large; here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, giving me to understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs and tribes.”
“It is a well-known fact that Massachusetts Bay was occupied by six tribes as the savages had so clearly pointed out, their names being Weechagaaskas, Neponsitt, Punkapoag, Nonantum, Nashaway and Nipmuck. The Indians near Cape Ann lived by agriculture rather than by hunting. From there the explorers sailed past Thatcher’s Island and Gloucester.”
Champlain’s Chart of Gloucester harbor, showing his ship anchored off Ten Pound Island, southeast of Rocky Neck.
THE LITTLE FRENCH VESSEL LAY AT ANCHOR A SHORT DISTANCE NORTHEAST OF TEN POUND ISLAND, WHILE HER SMALL BOAT WAS BEING REPAIRED ON A PENINSULA NEARBY, DOUBTLESS ROCKY NECK. SAILORS IN THE MEANWHILE WERE WASHING THEIR LINEN AT THE POINT WHERE THE PENINSULA JOINS THE MAINLAND. WHILE CHAMPLAIN WAS WALKING ALONG THE SHORE HE DETECTED SOME REDSKINS HIDING BEHIND THE BUSHES. POUTRINCOURT, HOWEVER, WITH SOME OF HIS MEN SURPRISED THEM, AND THE INDIANS DISPERSED. LATER THEY BECAME FRIENDLY AND ASSURED THE VISITORS THAT IF THEY REMAINED THERE A SHORT TIME TWO THOUSAND OF THEIR FRIENDS WOULD VISIT THEM. THIS OFFER DID NOT APPEAL ESPECIALLY TO THE FRENCH, AS ONE CAN READILY IMAGINE.”
CHAMPLAIN THUS DESCRIBES HIS IMPRESSIONS OF
HIS VISIT HERE:
” WE SAW TWO HUNDRED SAVAGES IN THIS VERY PLEASANT PLACE; AND THERE ARE HERE A LARGE NUMBER OF VERY FINE WALNUT-TREES, CYPRESSES, SASSAFRAS, OAKS, ASHES, AND BEECHES.
THE CHIEF OF THIS PLACE IS NAMED QUIOUHAMENEC, WHO CAME TO SEE US WITH A NEIGHBOR OF HIS, NAMED COHOUEPECH, WHOM WE ENTERTAINED SUMPTUOUSLY.
ONEMECHIN, CHIEF OF SACO, CAME ALSO TO SEE US, TO WHOM WE GAVE A COAT WHICH HE, HOWEVER, DID NOT KEEP A LONG TIME, BUT MADE A PRESENT OF IT TO ANOTHER, SINCE HE WAS UNEASY IN IT, AND COULD NOT ADAPT HIMSELF TO IT. …..
… SOME OF THE LAND WAS ALREADY CLEARED UP, AND THEY WERE CONSTANTLY MAKING CLEARINGS. THEIR MODE OF DOING IT IS AS FOLLOWS: AFTER CUTTING DOWN THE TREES AT THE DISTANCE OF THREE FEET FROM THE GROUND, THEY BURN THE BRANCHES UPON THE TRUNK AND THEN PLANT THEIR CORN BETWEEN THE STUMPS, IN COURSE OF TIME TEARING UP ALSO THE ROOTS. THERE ARE LIKEWISE THE MEADOWS HERE, CAPABLE OF SUPPORTING A LARGE NUMBER OF CATTLE. THIS HARBOUR IS VERY FINE, CONTAINING WATER ENOUGH FOR VESSELS, AND AFFORDING A SHELTER FROM THE WEATHER BEHIND THE ISLAND.”
THE LITTLE FRENCH VESSEL LAY AT ANCHOR A SHORT DISTANCE NORTHEAST OF TEN POUND ISLAND, WHILE HER SMALL BOAT WAS BEING REPAIRED ON A PENINSULA NEARBY, DOUBTLESS ROCKY NECK. SAILORS IN THE MEANWHILE WERE WASHING THEIR LINEN AT THE POINT WHERE THE PENINSULA JOINS THE MAINLAND. WHILE CHAMPLAIN WAS WALKING ALONG THE SHORE HE DETECTED SOME REDSKINS HIDING BEHIND THE BUSHES. POUTRINCOURT, HOWEVER, WITH SOME OF HIS MEN SURPRISED THEM, AND THE INDIANS DISPERSED. LATER THEY BECAME FRIENDLY AND ASSURED THE VISITORS THAT IF THEY REMAINED THERE A SHORT TIME TWO THOUSAND OF THEIR FRIENDS WOULD VISIT THEM. THIS OFFER DID NOT APPEAL ESPECIALLY TO THE FRENCH, AS ONE CAN READILY IMAGINE.”
CHAMPLAIN THUS DESCRIBES HIS IMPRESSIONS OF
HIS VISIT HERE:
” WE SAW TWO HUNDRED SAVAGES IN THIS VERY PLEASANT PLACE; AND THERE ARE HERE A LARGE NUMBER OF VERY FINE WALNUT-TREES, CYPRESSES, SASSAFRAS, OAKS, ASHES, AND BEECHES.
THE CHIEF OF THIS PLACE IS NAMED QUIOUHAMENEC, WHO CAME TO SEE US WITH A NEIGHBOR OF HIS, NAMED COHOUEPECH, WHOM WE ENTERTAINED SUMPTUOUSLY.
ONEMECHIN, CHIEF OF SACO, CAME ALSO TO SEE US, TO WHOM WE GAVE A COAT WHICH HE, HOWEVER, DID NOT KEEP A LONG TIME, BUT MADE A PRESENT OF IT TO ANOTHER, SINCE HE WAS UNEASY IN IT, AND COULD NOT ADAPT HIMSELF TO IT. …..
… SOME OF THE LAND WAS ALREADY CLEARED UP, AND THEY WERE CONSTANTLY MAKING CLEARINGS. THEIR MODE OF DOING IT IS AS FOLLOWS: AFTER CUTTING DOWN THE TREES AT THE DISTANCE OF THREE FEET FROM THE GROUND, THEY BURN THE BRANCHES UPON THE TRUNK AND THEN PLANT THEIR CORN BETWEEN THE STUMPS, IN COURSE OF TIME TEARING UP ALSO THE ROOTS. THERE ARE LIKEWISE THE MEADOWS HERE, CAPABLE OF SUPPORTING A LARGE NUMBER OF CATTLE. THIS HARBOUR IS VERY FINE, CONTAINING WATER ENOUGH FOR VESSELS, AND AFFORDING A SHELTER FROM THE WEATHER BEHIND THE ISLAND.”
P.13
“CHAMPLAIN THEN DESCRIBES VERY CAREFULLY THE APPEARANCE AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES HE FOUND BETWEEN “ISLAND CAPE,” AS THE FRENCH CALLED CAPE ANN, AND CAPE COD:
” ALL THESE SAVAGES WEAR NEITHER ROBES NOR FURS, EXCEPT VERY RARELY; MOREOVER, THEIR ROBES ARE MADE OF GRASSES AND HEMP, SCARCELY COVERING THE BODY, AND COMING DOWN ONLY TO THEIR THIGHS … THE MEN CUT OFF THE HAIR ON THE TOP OF THE HEAD LIKE THOSE AT THE SACO RIVER. I SAW, AMONG OTHER THINGS, A GIRL WITH HER HAIR VERY NEATLY DRESSED, WITH SKIN COLORED RED, AND BORDERED ON THE UPPER PART WITH LITTLE SHELL-BEADS. A PART OF HER HAIR HUNG DOWN BEHIND, THE REST BEING BRAIDED IN VARIOUS WAYS. THESE PEOPLE PAINT THEIR FACES RED, BLACK AND YELLOW. THEY HAVE SCARCELY ANY BEARD, AND TEAR IT OUT AS FAST AS IT GROWS. THEIR BODIES ARE WELL- PROPORTIONED. I CANNOT TELL WHAT GOVERNMENT THEY HAVE, BUT I THINK THAT IN THIS RESPECT THEY RESEMBLE THEIR NEIGHBORS , WHO HAVE NONE AT ALL. THEY KNOW NOT HOW TO WORSHIP OR PRAY; YET, LIKE THE OTHER SAVAGES, THEY HAVE SOME SUPERSTITIONS, WHICH I DESCRIBE IN THEIR PLACE. AS FOR WEAPONS,THEY HAVE ONLY PIKES, CLUBS, BOWS AND ARROWS. IT WOULD SEEM FROM THEIR APPEARANCE THAT THEY HAVE A GOOD DISPOSITION, BETTER THAN THOSE OF THE NORTH.”
….” CHAMPLAIN IN HIS DIARY, IN DESCRIBING THEM SAYS:
:….THEY ALSO DYE THEIR HAIR, WHICH SOME WEAR LONG, OTHERS SHORT, OTHERS ON ONE SIDE ONLY. THE WOMEN AND GIRLS ALWAYS WEAR THEIR HAIR IN ONE UNIFORM STYLE … THEY ARE LOADED WITH QUANTITIES OF PORCELAIN, IN THE SHAPE OF NECKLACES … THEY ALSO WEAR BRACELETS AND EARRINGS. THEY HAVE THEIR HAIR CAREFULLY COMBED, DYED, AND OILED. THUS THEY GO TO THE DANCE, WITH A KNOT OF THEIR HAIR BEHIND BOUND UP WITH EEL-SKIN …THUS GAILY DRESSED AND HABITED, THEY DELIGHT TO APPEAR IN THE DANCE, TO WHICH THEIR FATHERS AND MOTHERS SEND THEM, FORGETTING NOTHING THAT THEY CAN DEVISE TO EMBELLISH AND SET OFF THEIR DAUGHTERS. … THERE IS A MODERATE NUMBER OF PLEASING AND PRETTY GIRLS, IN RESPECT TO FIGURE, COLOR, AND EXPRESSION, ALL BEING IN HARMONY. … THESE HAVE ALMOST THE ENTIRE CARE OF THE HOUSE AND WORK; NAMELY, THEY TILL THE LAND, PLANT THE INDIAN CORN, LAY UP A STORE OF WOOD FOR THE WINTER, BEAT THE HEMP AND SPIN IT, MAKING FROM THE THREAD FISHING NETS AND OTHER USEFULL THINGS. THE WOMEN HARVEST THE CORN , HOUSE IT, PREPARE IT FOR EATING, AND ATTEND TO HOUSEHOLD MATTERS. MOREOVER, THEY ARE EXPECTED TO ATTEND THEIR HUSBANDS FROMPLACE TO PLACE IN THE FIELDS, FILLING THE OFFICE OF PACK-MULE IN CARRYING THE BAGGAGE, AND TO DO A THOUSAND OTHER THINGS. ALL THE MEN DO IS TO HUNT FOR DEER AND OTHER ANIMALS, FISH, MAKE THEIR CABINS, AND GO TO WAR. …”
P19
…”On their voyage home in 1607 the French colonists met a Basque fisherman from Saint-Jean de Luz named Savalette, who, according to Lescarbot, had made forty-two voyages to Acadia, and who reported that he usually caught fifty crowns’ worth of codfish a day and that this voyage would yield him probably ten thousand francs.
p.xi
“…Had he known there were numbers of them on the Cape as late as 1606, he (Babson) no doubt, would have attributed the lack of resistance to white settlers to the epidemic of 1616-17 which decimated the tribes inhabiting the Massachusetts coast.” (9)
…”English settlers from Dorchester returned in 1623 to establish the first permanent fishing station in Massachusetts Bay Colony. Before the English settlement, a community of Agawams – tribe of Algonquin – lived in a village along the Gloucester shoreline. The Agawam village contained cleared land for cultivating corn, and fish and shellfish harvest was important. Plagues eliminated the native population by the 1620’s. Small colonial villages were well established on Gloucester Harbor, the Annisquam River, and the north side of Cape Ann on Ipswich Bay by the 1640’s. (8)
The Early Fisheries of Cape Ann
In 1623 a fishing vessel from England, having completed her cargo in “Mattahusetts Bay,” sailed for Spain, leaving fourteen men ” in the country at Cape Anne,” to await her return. Early in the next year the same ship, with a consort, came to Cape Ann, and after an unsuccessful fishing season set sail for England, leaving thirty-two men here. The following year three vessels
came from England, and an effort was made to establish a colony here under the governorship of Roger Conant, but the attempt was abandoned in the course of the year, Mr. Conant and some of his companions removing to Salem, and founding the Colony of Massachusetts Bay. Fishing was also carried on at Cape Ann in 1624 and 1625 by the Plymouth people, who had two vessels fishing on our coast in the latter year. The permanent settle-
ment of the territory was commenced prior to 1633, and something was again done in the way of fishing as early as 1639, although it does not appear that the early settlers of the Cape were fishermen.” (15)
Mayflower (16) p.162
….” Oldham and a salter named Roger Conant, found refuge amid the isolated fishing and trading outposts that had sprouted up along the New England coast at places like Nantasket and Cape Ann.”
p. 164
….” In 1625, the former Plymouth resident Roger Conant was forced to intercede in an altercation between Standish and some fishermen on Cape Ann. Conant was so appalled by the violence of the Plymouth captain’s manner that he later described the incident in great detail to the Puritan historian William Hubbard. Echoing Robinson’s earlier concerns, Hubbard wrote, “Capt. Standish … Never entered the school of our Saviour Christ… or, if he was ever there, had forgot his first lessons, to offer violence to no man.” As Morton and Pecksuot had observed, it was almost comical to see this sort of fury in a soldier who had been forced to shorten his rapier by 6 inches – otherwise the tip of his sword’s scabbard would have dragged along the ground when he slung it from his waist. “A little chimney is soon fired,” Hubbard wrote;” so was the Plymouth captain, a man of very little stature, yet of a very hot and angry temper.” (16)
About 1630 a party of men, led by a son of Rev. John Robinson of Puritan fame, seeking a place suitable for a fishing station, landed at Annisquam, and were so well pleased with its harbor and other conveniences that they concluded to set up a fishing stage there, and send for their families. This was the first permanent settlement of Cape Ann. (15)
“Ship-building was also carried on very early. Among the accessions to the town William Stevens who came to Boston in 1632, and in 1642 appears in Gloucester as one of the town commissioners. He was the most competent shipbuilder in New England at the time, and held many offices of trust in the community. ….. As early as 1633 he built a ship here for a Mr. Griffin, which was followed by the building of several others.” (19)
Governors John Winthrop of Massachusetts Bay Colony and William Bradford of Plymouth Colony recorded accounts of the GCH. Both describe high winds, 14 to 20 foot storm surges along the south-facing coasts of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and great destruction.peo [1]
….The small barque Watch and Wait, owned by a Mr. Isaac Allerton, foundered in the storm off Cape Ann with 23 ple aboard. The only survivors were Antony Thacher and his wife, who reached Thacher Island. Thacher later wrote an account of the shipwreck.
Fishing vessels and other craft needed a protected and shorter route between the harbor and Ipswich Bay. Reverend Blynman, a religious and political leader of the time, received permission in 1642 to dig a canal between the harbor and Annisquam River. Referred to as “the cut” and latter called the Blynman Canal, the passage was periodically filled in over the years due to storms and was intentionally filled after periods of disuse.” (9)
“Hard by a half acre of the field in that vicinity in 1644, was reserved for a burial ground, and here all that was mortal of the early settlers was laid to rest. This spot is, without doubt, the site of what is the Bridge street burial ground.” (19)
“PETER DUNCAN, who carried on a small trading establishment, bought a house and land in 1662 near the inner harbor, a portion of which, long known as Duncan’s Point, now one of the most valuable tracts in the city. His wife was Mary, daughter of Deputy Governor Sirnond Sr. by whom he had several children, but the name is not perpetuated by descendants in the town. Duncan street derives its name from this settler.” (19)
….This would become the Arts
Association Wharf
“The first poor house was erected by the town in 1719, but was never very popular. It had only one occupant, Ruth Miller, for a number of years, and was called her house.” (19)
The fisheries of Cape Ann, as a considerable and permanent industry, seem to have become firmly established about 1722, when the business was conducted on a somewhat extensive scale at Annisquam, and also, in a lesser degree, in the harbor parish. Heretofore the business had been carried on in small sloops, built in the town, but in 1720 a few schooners were added,
and this class of vessels soon became popular. Many of these schooners were of a burthen of fifty tons or more, and were therefore suitable for the prosecution of the fisheries on the Grand Bank and other distant fishing grounds. They were of a nearly uniform model, with square bows and high stern, and presented the strongest possible contrast to the swift clipper fleet of our own day.
“In 1743, what is known as the old fort on Commercial Street, now encroached upon and surrounded by buildings, was completed.” (19)
”The locally famous Peg Wesson story comes in here. Notwithstanding the severe lesson of the witchcraft delusion, belief in the existence of witches had by no means died out. The woman Wesson lived in what was then called the Garrison house, standing on the spot now occupied by the Catholic parochial residence, removed a few years since to Maplewood avenue, where it serves as a tenement house. Wesson was accounted a witch. Shortly before departing, several of Capt. Byles’ company visited Peg and so exasperated her by their conduct that she threatened them with a visitation of her wrath at Louisburg. While encamped before the latter place, the attention of the Gloucester men was attracted by the peculiar actions of a crow which circled just above them. Fruitless endeavors were made to shoot the bird of ill omen. Finally a soldier suggested that the crow must be Peg Wesson transformed, according to the belief concerning the supernatural powers of witches. In this event, no bullet except one cast from silver or gold would possess the properties sufficiently potent to puncture her skin. A silver sleeve button was hastily rammed into a gun, and discharged at the bird, which fell wounded in the leg. Upon their return to Gloucester, the soldiers learned that at the precise time when the crow was wounded, Peg Wesson fell near her house receiving a fracture of the leg, and furthermore, that the doctor, on dressing the limb extracted a foreign substance from the bone which proved to be the same sleeve button fired at the crow before Louisburg. The truth of this happening as recounted was generally accepted at the time.” (19)
Population growth and coastal development was concentrated around the harbor by 1750,with the population expanding to 2,700. Large boats fished, primarily for cod, as far out as the Grand Banks. (13)
p.565
“Nature has denied to Cape Ann a fertile soil; but she has given it a harbor of such excellence as will make it the seat of an active population, so long as men shall pursue that “great sea-business of fishing” which first attracted people of the English race to its shores.
This business must, in the future as in the past, constitute the chief employment of those who dwell upon its rocky territory; for, though its safe and commodious harbor can well accommodate a large foreign and coastwise trade, its proximity to a great commercial metropolis will ever discourage the growth of any other than a local business. This assertion is warranted by the fact, that its registered tonnage was less in 1855 than in 1790.” (Contested?)
p.571
“The shore-fishery of Gloucester had risen to some importance before the Revolution….
In 1792, 0ne hundred and thirty-three Chebacco boats, measuring in the aggregate fifteen hundred and forty-nine tons, were engaged in it. These boats resorted to the ledges and shoal grounds near the coast, where they found, at different seasons, cod, hake, and pollack; and pursued their fishery with such success, that, in twelve years from the last-named date, the number of boats engaged in it had increased to about two hundred, while the tonnage had nearly doubled. At this time, the boat-fishing was chiefly carried on at Sandy Bay and the other coves on the outside of the Cape; but the advantage of a good harbor for their larger boats drew a few of the people away from these localities, to settle on Eastern Point, soon after 1800. (9)
“Although the necessities of the town had not as yet required the erection of a jail, yet, about this time, a public whipping post and stocks were erected. They were maintained until about 1770, and the location of these implements was in a field, between Middle and Main streets on the one side, and Hancock and Centre streets on the other.” (19)
The Revolution, of course, put an embargo on Bank fishing, as well as an end to the exportation of fish, and the business soon dwindled to insignificant figures. After peace had been declared the business was resumed, and some sixty vessels were sent to the Grand Bank, but in consequence of unsatisfactory returns the business soon languished.
This is an early photograph showing Cressy ‘s Beach and the old Fort battlements.
The dragon below is painted on the rocks at the end of the beach.
18′ “Oarfish” retrieved off Catalina Island, Ca.,
thought to grow to 50′ long in the deep ocean.
blown up from the chart of Capt. John Smith, dated 1614
from Champlain’s chart drawn in1606.
“Not until the first newspaper was published in 1827…” (9)
p.571
“At the end of this period (in 1828), the whole number of vessels upwards of twenty tons, engaged in the Gloucester fisheries, was one hundred and fifty-four, measuring five thousand eight hundred and ninety-nine tons; to which are to be added about forty boats, of an average burthen of fifteen tons. The total annual product of the cod-fishery of the town at this time is said to have been about sixty thousand quintals. But another fishery had now begun to attract the attention of the fishermen; and the shore-fishing for cod, except that carried on in winter, declined from this time, till it came to be, as at the present day, (1855), of insignificant account in the business of the town.”
“The inshore mackerel fishery became important in the 1830’s, salt cod was a lucrative commodity for trade with Europe, the West Indies, and Surinam.” (12)
“International trade and supporting industries (e.g., fishing, shipbuilding, and brokering) was the foundation of Gloucester’s economy after the Revolutionary War, until the 1840’s. Trade laws and taxation policies, during the 1840’s, forced Gloucester merchants to funnel exports through Boston to import foreign goods. These changes stimulated a shift from foreign trade to the already-successful fisheries as the center of the Gloucester economy.” (12)
p.107
“In a well-intentioned if moralistic stab at sizing up the Gloucestermen of the day, the Goode Commission report of a hundred years ago (Captain Collins the probable author) had this to say:
“In large ports, like Gloucester, wither flock the discontented, the disgraced, and the ne’er-do-wells, as well as the most enterprising and ambitious of the young men from the whole coast, there is, of course, less attention paid to the question of morals than in rural communities, and the general moral tone of the fishing classes is below the average for the whole coast… There are, of course, depraved men among the fishermen whose vicious instincts are increased by the irregular character of their occupation, but a large majority of the fishermen, even of Gloucester, are pure in their morals.” (6)
The Baptist Church on Pleasant St., as seen from Main St. Now a parking lot, as seen in photograph above.
“Not until the first newspaper was published in 1827…” (9)
p.571
“At the end of this period (in 1828), the whole number of vessels upwards of twenty tons, engaged in the Gloucester fisheries, was one hundred and fifty-four, measuring five thousand eight hundred and ninety-nine tons; to which are to be added about forty boats, of an average burthen of fifteen tons. The total annual product of the cod-fishery of the town at this time is said to have been about sixty thousand quintals. But another fishery had now begun to attract the attention of the fishermen; and the shore-fishing for cod, except that carried on in winter, declined from this time, till it came to be, as at the present day, (1855), of insignificant account in the business of the town.”
“The inshore mackerel fishery became important in the 1830’s, salt cod was a lucrative commodity for trade with Europe, the West Indies, and Surinam.” (12)
“International trade and supporting industries (e.g., fishing, shipbuilding, and brokering) was the foundation of Gloucester’s economy after the Revolutionary War, until the 1840’s. Trade laws and taxation policies, during the 1840’s, forced Gloucester merchants to funnel exports through Boston to import foreign goods. These changes stimulated a shift from foreign trade to the already-successful fisheries as the center of the Gloucester economy.” (12)
p.107
“In a well-intentioned if moralistic stab at sizing up the Gloucestermen of the day, the Goode Commission report of a hundred years ago (Captain Collins the probable author) had this to say:
“In large ports, like Gloucester, wither flock the discontented, the disgraced, and the ne’er-do-wells, as well as the most enterprising and ambitious of the young men from the whole coast, there is, of course, less attention paid to the question of morals than in rural communities, and the general moral tone of the fishing classes is below the average for the whole coast… There are, of course, depraved men among the fishermen whose vicious instincts are increased by the irregular character of their occupation, but a large majority of the fishermen, even of Gloucester, are pure in their morals.” (6)
Pinky “Maine”, 24 tons, built at Essex, Mass. in 1843
Pinky schooners were a common type of New England fishing vessel that sailed out of local Cape Ann harbors from the early eighteenth century through the early twentieth century. In 1839, there were 64 registered pinky schooners out of the Cape Ann and its district. Pinkies were generally smaller vessels from which men fished over the side but they were also known for their seaworthiness. These vessels were so distinctive in their look and common that a careful study of many marine paintings from the era will have a pinky or two in the background. Many of the paintings of the internationally renowned artist Fitz Henry Lane, including those in the National Gallery in Washington, D.C. usually have pinkies in the background of the painting. “Pinky” means that the stern is “pinked” or pinched together which indicates a pointed stern and may originally be a Dutch word.
It is believed that the pinkies developed from Chebacco boats. A good many of them were built at Essex. These vessels were built to a very high standard and some lasted a very long time. The original MAINE was built in 1845 and sailed until 1926.
from Harold Burnham
Looking at Rocky Neck from across Smith Cove.
Arrow shows the John Pew & Son’s building
The Burnham Brothers Railway, whose first rail was built in 1849 by brothers Parker, Joseph and Elias Burnham, after recognizing the need for a facility that could haul boats out of the water for repairs.
Gloucester’s Train Station
Rocky Neck, East Gloucester
Rocky Neck in 1851 with just eleven structures on it.
“It may be well to state right here that in 1849 undivided half of
this entire property was purchased by Mr. Cyrus Story for $500. It was then used as a sheep pasture.” (20)
“Fitz Hugh Lane built the striking granite house of seven gables that dominates the knoll for his studio more than a year before Hawthorne’s work of the same name was published in 1851.”
(14)
Canvas #49 Short St. Boarding House
Then and now. Back when Main St. was Front St. and the roads were dirt.
p.564
“The Catholic population of the Cape at the present time, according to an estimate of Dr. Acquarone, is twenty-five hundred. This estimate is not probably much too large, considering that the number of infants of this population baptized in two years and seven months, ending in September, 1859, was three hundred. Some of these infants are born to an inheritance of vice and ignorance; and, to be faithful, the historian must not fail to warn those who are beholding this with indifference, that it will require all the good influenced of churches and schools, and the best exertions of wise and philanthropic citizens, to make them men and women whom the town will be happy to own as her sons and daughters.” (9)
Canvas #103
View from the church tower
“Previous to 1840 there were few of foreign birth or parentage in this town. Some half-dozen Irish families, at the most, constituted the local representatives of the Emerald Isle. After 1850 quite a number came to town, and the total foreign population of the Cape in 1855 was about 1500, including several Portuguese families from the Western Islands.” (19)
1856 Gloucester Harbor Village
Productive fisheries encouraged substantial emigration of skilled labor from the Canadian Maritimes, Portugal, and Ireland, and Gloucester’s population grew to 10,000 by 1860.
Tarr and Wonson Paint Factory was established on Rocky Neck in 1863. The paint factory was the first copper paint factory in the country and supplied anti-fouling bottom paints for vessels throughout the northeastern United States.”
“Immediate action was taken toward the erection of fortifications. Land at Eastern Point, belonging to Thomas Niles was acquired by the government, an earthwork fort erected and manned. Defences were thrown up at a commanding position on Stage Fort and named Fort Conant in memory of the early settler, Roger, who was a prominent actor in an occurrence, before related, which took place on the same spot where a barricade had been erected.” (19)
.xix
“…on the night of February 18, 1864, fire started in a store at the west end of Front Street. Swept on by a winter gale and fought with inadequate apparatus frustrated by near zero temperatures, it engulfed both sides of the street, burned for seven hours out of control and destroyed 103 buildings and left 15 acres in ashes before it was stopped at Fishermen’s Corner across from the old Customs House. In the case of rebuilding after this worst fire in Cape Ann history, Front Street was extended and renamed Main Street, and Rogers Street was created, parallel to the waterfront.” (9)
The Cape Ann National Bank was established in 1856 as the Bank of Cape Ann. The The Cape Ann National Bank succeeded the old Bank of Cape Ann in 1856, and it became a national bank in 1865. In 1864 the original bank building was burned in the great fire and rebuilt.
“First National Banks came into existence.” (18)
The federal government realized that investment to harbor infrastructures was required to maintain safe and navigable harbors and dredging became economically viable after the Civil War (1865)
Key dredging technologies, such as steam engines, hydraulic pumps, and underwater explosives, were developed which initiated a history of federal investment for navigation improvements.
Canvas #109 Fitz Henry Lane and the Paint Factory
p.xx
Fitz Hugh Lane – died at the age of 61 on August 13, 1865. (9)
1865 – “…The same year Blynman Canal was reopened to water traffic and a drawbridge was built by the Aberdeen Granite Company for access to what proved later to be its unsuccessful Wolf Hill quarrying enterprise.” (9)
“Somes Field purchased for new Town House on condition that no road be built through it and Warren St. not to be widened,” (18)
“Cornerstone laid for Town House, beneath it a galvanized iron box was deposited with Town Meeting accounts, record of organizations, matters about War of Rebellion and condition of Country and Town.” (18)
“During the typical year of 1868, sixty-five of Gloucester Georgesmen pursued the winter hand line codfishery, and this fleet replaced its losses year after year though Georges Bank was the hardest, most dangerous, most exacting of all; but the demand for quality persisted and it paid top money.” (9)
The first Gloucester Town Hall was built on Dale Ave. in 1867, only to completely burn down in 1869.
1869… Stage Fort Park… 100th Conference of the Universalist Church
“Baptist Church on corner of Pleasant and Middle Sts. utterly destroyed by fire.” (18)
“Gloucester by 1870 was the largest town in the state; in but five years since the war the population had increased by 3,603 to 15,397 under the spur of prosperity, great growth in the fisheries, and the accompanying wave of immigration.” (9)
1872 Map of Rocky Neck and Smith Cove
1872 Map of Gloucester
“Middle St. was notorious for night walkers.” (18)
Cape Ann Weekly Advertiser, May 3, 1872
“First City election held.” (18)
Canvas #151 End of Rocky Neck and Town
“Tarr and Wonson Paint (factory) Company built five-building complex” (18)
“Three main roads still dirt, Front St. (Main St., Middle St., and Back St.
(Prospect St.)” (18)
In 1876 The LePage Company was founded. Products were manufactured by the Russia Cement Company in West Gloucester.
Between January 1880 and 1887, world-wide, over 47 million bottles of LePages Original Glue were sold.
Looking down into Harbor Cove, with the “Fort” on the other side, Ten Pound Island beyond and Eastern Point at the top of the photograph.
St.Ann’s Catholic Church built with Pigeon Cove granite. (18)
Alfred Johnsen, a Gloucester fisherman of Danish birth, was the first man to cross the ocean unaccompanied even by a dog. His dory, the Centennial, was built in this city by Messrs. Higgins & Gifford, and was 16 ft. keel, 20 ft. over all, 5 ft. wide and 2 ft. deep, decked over with the exception of a standing room and hatchway, sloop-rigged, with two jibs, mainsail and square-sail. The Centennial sailed from Gloucester June 15, 1876, touched at Barrington, N. S., sailed again June 25, and arrived safely at Liverpool, England, Aug. 21, sixty-seven days from Gloucester. Johnsen was a close calculator, and his log gave evidence that he followed the general route of steamship travel. Aug. 2 his boat was capsized by a heavy sea, but he managed to right her. Soon after, a huge shark appeared alongside, which he frightened away with a knife fastened to a pole. (15)
“…. the young fisherman Alfred Johnson sailed to England in 1876, the first singlehanded crossing of the Atlantic in recorded history. Centennial Johnson returned to Gloucester a hero, though years later, after he had retired from the sea as one of Gorton-Pew’s skippers, he allowed as how he’d been a “damn fool” to try it.” (14)
Gloucester National Bank on the corner of Main Street and Duncan.
Looking down, into Duncan St., with the harbor at the end.
Pavillion Beach, running along Western Ave.
the Pavillion Hotel at the end of Western Ave. today the site of the Tavern, but then, “nearly the first seaside resort hotel on the North Shore.” (14)
Widows’ Home
This house was built for fishermen’s widows in Gloucester around 1870. It had ten apartments of three rooms each. Rent for each apartment was $3 per month.
Gloucester’s new City Hall:
“It was built in 1870 and dedicated the following year, and has served as the main location for the city’s offices since then.” Wikipedia
“CITY HALL BUILT. Immediate action was taken by the citizens to rebuild. At a town meeting called to consider the subject a short time afterwards, James Davis, Esq., moved that $90,000, which included the insurance on the old building, be appropriated for the erection of a new town house. The motion was carried by a large majority. Plans of Bryant & Rogers of Boston, were afterwards decided upon for the structure and the contract for the mason work was awarded to Albert Currier of Newburyport, and D. Somes Watson and H. Clough were awarded the carpenter’s work. Its cost was $100,000; with furnishings, $110,000.” (19)
CANVAS #9 Gloucester’s Paint Factory
THE MERCHANT BOX COMPANY
IN 1877, WHAT EVENTUALLY
BECAME KNOWN AS THE
MERCHANT BOX COMPANY WAS
BEGUN, WHEN LEWIS H. MERCHANT
(THE YOUNGEST BROTHER OF WM. T. MERCHANT) OPENED A BOX AND COOPERAGE BUSINESS ON THE SHUTE & MERCHANT WHARVES. AT THAT TIME IT WAS KNOWN AS LEWIS H. MERCHANT BOX MANUFACTURER, AND MOST LIKELY THE COMPANY MADE ALL THE BOXES AND BUTTS USED BY SHUTE & MERCHANT WHILE IT WAS IN BUSINESS. THE BUSINESS GREW SO LARGE IT HAD TO RELOCATE TO A LARGER SITE. SOME TIME AFTER HIS DEATH IN 1891 THE BUSINESS BECAME KNOWN AS THE MERCHANT BOX AND COOPERAGE AND OPERATED AS PART OF SHUTE & MERCHANT. [ACCORDING TO RECORDS MADE BY GEORGE E. MERCHANT, A FAMILY HISTORIAN, IT WAS JAMES L. SHUTE WHO HAD THE IDEA TO START A BOX COMPANY RIGHT AT THE WHARF WHERE THE FISH WERE BEING PACKED.
“Giles Chapel on Rocky Neck built” (18) GDT Feb.11, 1991
“The Summer of 1878 was memorable for the selection of this city as the Summer headquarters of the U. S. Fish Commission. The scientific corps comprising the Commission arrived here July 9, Prof. Baird and his clerical force taking up their residence at the Kirby cottages on Western avenue, and a large building on Fort Wharf was leased for an office, laboratory, etc.
The laboratory work was under the the special charge of Prof. Goode of the Commission and Prof. Verrill of Yale College, with Dr. Bean and Messrs. Richard Rathburn and Warren Upham as assistants.”
….”One of the most valuable results at the Gloucester station was the demonstration of the fact that codfish, haddock, herring, and other deep sea fish could be artificially propagated as readily as shad, whitefish, and other denizens of our rivers and lakes. Assistant Commissioner Milner, Capt. Ches-
ter and Messrs. Frank N. Clark and Robert E. Hall had charge of the cod-hatching experiments, which were entered upon after the departure of their associates. Various devices were tried, until the proper conditions were realized, and several millions of codfish were hatched out and turned into the harbor, where they could be readily observed around the wharves the following Summer, having made a good growth. It was also found that
herring, haddock, and pollock could be artificially multiplied at will. The results of the experiments were all that could have been expected, and much valuable information was secured that will be of great advantage if the work is ever attempted on a large scale.
The fish-hatching establishment was broken up in the early part of January, 1879, but the Commission retained its laboratory for the reception and preparation of specimens brought in by Gloucester fishing vessels until the Summer of 1881.
(15)
From The Fisheren’s Own Book
Importance of Fish Culture
Day after day this wonderful enterprise is meeting with greater and greater encouragement. The fact of reproducing fish artificially is based upon the practical experiences of a Frenchman nearly a century ago, and although its success proved largely beyond his expectations, the world remained, as many people do to-day, skeptical as to the feasibility of the experiments As in all other important events discovered by accident, science was essen. tial to the thorough illustration in the matter of fish culture. The advances made within the last half century are simply bewildering. The brook trout was first propagated by artificial means ; now even salt-water fishes, including lobsters and oysters, are destined to yield to the manipulation of man, and have their number increased beyond the limits of calculation. Necessity, the admitted mother of invention, should have prompted the European scientists to make the greatest efforts, yet the facts are, it is to those of our young republic to whom the honors have been awarded for the great work, though surrounded by an abundance. Under the. skilful direction of Prof. S. F. Baird, the world renowned Seth Green, and others, the propagation of fish and inventions pertaining thereto, have won for these gentlemen notoriety unequalled by any pisciculturists of the world. Hatcheries, transporting implements, acclimatizing of fish, fishways, and the like, have been perfected in the United States to such a degree that the European Fish Congress held a year ago in Germany awarded their most valuable prizes to gentlemen of our country. The State Fish Commissioners have seconded their national official brethren by untiring energy and skill, which brings them under honorable notice by their colabarateurs abroad. The McDonald fishway is a monument which will perpetuate the name of its inventor. Eugene Blackford of New York has his name engraved upon the historical records of fish, with the Lutjamis blackfordii; so might be enumerated every one of these gentlemen who, without other consideration than the true manly sense of duty, have labored to protect and increase the fish supply of our country. Prof. Geek of Wurzburg, Germany, a noted scientist, is now compiling a book upon this interesting subject, and has wisely placed himself in correspondence with our National and State Fish Commissioners with a view of getting reliable data and information which has been derived from their relative experiences. This is one of many instances complimentary to American fish culturists, but when their present efforts will have been matured by material results, more of them will come pouring in. Much has yet to be done to develop the plans of increased fish culture. The legislatures of the several States must make liberal appropriations, the people are to be educated to the importance of the enterprise, and then the whole world will marvel at what has and can be done. Oysters, which form so large a part of our food supply, must be artificially propagated. Scientists are already occupying themselves about it, and one or two have even devised apparatus for testing the subject. When this is made practicable, with what is being done towards the increase in the supply of fish, a fund of wealth will have been opened far greater than the gold fields of Australia or California. Only a few years ago German carp were introduced into the United States, yet at present their produce would represent edible fish to the extent of many tons. In less than ten years the whole country will be stocked with them. This will materially lessen the existing vandalism practiced in our lakes and streams, consequently assisting nature in the increase of fish in them.
“ Life expectancy at birth was 42 years for males, 44 years for females.” (18)
“Demonstration that deep-sea fish could be artificially propagated as readily as ”denizens” of rivers and lakes.” (18)
“Front St., along with Spring, Union Hill and Jackson Sts., became one and were renamed Main St..” (18)
Canvas #31 Halibut on Deck
“The acknowledged lions of the fleet – men and boats – were the fresh halibuters, forty of them in the peak halibut year of 1879 (the catch declined steadily after that and never recovered from fifty years of overfishing), when they landed 8,300,000 pounds of this giant of the flounders. Every month of the year the strongest and fastest of the Gloucestermen dory-trawled the world’s deepest fishery – Grand Bank, Banquereau, Green, St. Peter’s, Western (Sable Island) and La Havre chiefly, anchoring down to 375 fathoms, fishing on occasion almost twice as deep. Furthermore, the enormous catch of the halibuters that year of 1879 was augmented by another three million pounds landed incidentally durig the winter by the Georges Bank codfishermen.” (6)
Navigation Light on Ten Pound Island
“Stone Cottage House on Ivy Hill built by Fitz Hugh Lane for Sale.” (18)
“Since the close of the war, and even before, the municipal and state constabulary, had been waging a constant warfare on illegal sellers of liquor, the prohibitory laws being in force the greater part of the time. During the previous 15 years and notably the preceding five, the great success of the fisheries, the marked increase of population and the plenteousness of money among all classes, especially seafaring men, attracted the attention of numerous harpies from the outside,’and houses of ill repute, free and easies, etc. sprang up like mushrooms on all sides. The effects of these combined social evils were severely felt in all circles of the community. Press, pulpit and public, cried aloud for the stamping out of these places.” (19)
Meeting House Green drawn in 1879.
from GMG: “This illustration appears in “History of the town and city of Gloucester,Massachusetts”, 1892, by James R. Pringle, who wrote, “A sketch of the town in 1817 was drawn by Capt. John Beach, from a point in the harbor opposite Ten Pound Island, off Pavilion Beach. Standing out prominently in the foreground was a eight-sided wooden windmill erected on the site now occupied by the Pavilion Hotel. This had been built in 1814 by Ignatius Webber, and its long arms, fitted with sails, made it a conspicuous object, and gave the town quite a foreign aspect. It was subsequently removed to a position on Fort Square, where it became a familiar landmark, being destroyed by fire, a few years ago.”